This was expected to be the rainiest and steepest day so far, and it did not disappoint.
Siri and David are showing the latest in Camino fashionHalfway though at Cruz dos Frances – we added our rocks to the base to mark our passage as many had done beforeWe began our trail on the rock pathway next to what was now a streamSome nice cascades in the river LagoWe walk with our Denmark friend Christine and catch up with our Bolivian friend Coco. He was also telling his friends that he had met an old friend from dancing 23 years ago. “You were just a kid then,” he kindly says to me.A chapel and cafe spot before we started up the highest point of the Camino Portugués – Alto da Portela Grande Stunning views in northern Portgual One of the many pilgrim fountains along our wayAt the top, we find some official looking people with walkie talkies – they are getting ready for a big car race next week, checking out the dirt forest roads. We are surprised to find out they race in a souped up Toyota Yaris.The breathtaking views after the steep climbMany signs help lead our way – this one is a firstWe head down the hill to our Albergue (hostel)A nice hot lunch while wrapped in a dry towel refreshes the soul at the bottom of the hill. It is here that a French couple arrive smiling in spite of it all (they even do a quick dance and twist to the background music) points down and remarks “it is a swimming pool in my shoes!” And we all laugh in agreement.Siri relaxes in our down sleeping bag to finally warm up
We catch up with our friend Christina from Denmark at the first cafe and spend the day together. We all agreed it was better together to help get through the cold and wet. The trail goes from muddy to rocks and then the trail is the river. Siri tries out her newly purchased bright blue rain jacket thinking that the umbrella isn’t going to cut it today.
Another seasoned pilgrim who has done several Caminos states they today was the worst weather and trail of any he has done before. I take it as a sign that it can only get better.
We are staying in the same Albergue as Coco and his daughter. I meet his daughter over a hot cup of tea in the small kitchen and the conversation goes deep and personal quickly as is the case along the Camino. We talk about kids, parents, overseas experiences and how and where does one feel and call home. I ask her why she is on the Camino and she says, “Because my dad asked and he has never asked before, so I came. He is also getting older at 76. We have already had those deeper talks that wouldn’t happen if kids and spouses were along.” I nod in agreement.
Tomorrow is expected to be two or three times as much rain as today. Our trusty (?) weather app says it will be worse in the morning, so our current plan is to leave in the late morning. That sort of worked a few days ago, but that makes for a much later arrival as well.
This is also where many of the conversations go to as well, “What will the weather do? What