Day 16: Villanova de Arousa to A Picaraña (via boat and Padrón)
Such was the advice from a 76 year-old German Pilgrim, Annette, we met on Monte Santiaguiño after climbing a few hundred steps with sore feet in Padrón. She is on her fifth or sixth Camino, “you get, how do you say it, addiction, after your first one “. She shared her stories as we shared our simple lunch of bread, cheese and chorizo. All were filled. She told us she is already planning her next Camino. Such are the many chance meetings along the Camino.
Such as when we were gritting through the last few miles today, we met up with our Russian friends from climbing up to the Monastery. Their company greatly eased the end of our journey as we laughed about our kids (they each have 3), our planning (they just thought up this trip 10 days ago) and our shared camino. Each encounter seemed more special since we didn’t know if we would see them again – and we did. Last night, on the boat, in front of the cathedral and now as they come out of the restaurant they catch us on the sidewalk. We chided them a bit since they told us they planned on walking the whole 18 miles to Santiago and we keep catching them. They are good story tellers and we thank them for the lift – of our spirits. They thank us since they believe we actually have helped them more. All in our perspectives and expectations.










Today was our earliest start since we all had to catch the 7 am boat due to the tides. It was a wonderful way to do the Camino and one of our favorite parts.
We walk into Padrón and surprisingly we are not met with many pilgrims since most have already left. We appreciate the quiet as we visit the more simple cathedral. On a friend’s recommendation and the guidebooks urging, we head up the mountain behind the enormous convent and meet the German Pilgrim over lunch.
From John Brierley’s guidebook. “One of the best kept Santiago secrets is Mount Santiaquiño, where legend tells us St. James first preached the gospel message. Standing imposingly above the river it is not difficult to envisage him delivering Christ’s message of unconditional love and forgiveness from this remote and peaceful place.”
I appreciate his next line especially.
“Just as the vast majority of pilgrims believe there is only one Camino de Santiago they also mistakenly believe that St James arrived in Spain dead – not alive. They therefore miss, perhaps the most important part of the Santiago story – his life and teaching rather than his death and burial.”
We stay just a bit longer and I even do the walk between the three rock openings – as the placard tells us 16th century pilgrims used to do as a way to signify their passage through hell, purgatory and into heaven. I modified it a bit and choose not to do it on my knees.
After coming down, we begin our second to last (penultimate, right) walk of our Camino. It is harder than the first few days due to the tired body and raw feet with blisters. We choose not to make too many more stops as the sun is now beating down and we are tied and focused …
And then our Russian friends join us and we all walk lighter and happier with the good company. Our burdens seem a lot less with friends. Another Camino message I am learning all too well.
We settle into our last hostel on the trail and begin receiving messages of friends who have arrived in Santiago today. They send this us their selfies with the cathedral behind. We are excited for them and send back well wishes. Some may even be able to welcome us as we arrive tomorrow.
For now, we prepare our bags, our feet, and our bodies for the last day on this Camino. We have received encouraging messages from friends back home along the way which has been very meaningful. Just today a friend reminded me it is about the journey and not the destination.
For me, I do believe it has already been enough. The journey has been the experience. It has been time with Siri, mostly uninterrupted for the last two weeks. It has been a time to reflect, to choose to be away from the day-to-day routines, and see if there are new routines that may take shape. We have appreciated the camaraderie of the Camino we have experienced every day. I am sure there will be more, but it is.more than enough already. As we tuck in for the night, Siri reads out the Spirit of the Camino from our pilgrim credentials.
We ask ourselves have we done these things:
Live in the moment
Welcome each day – its pleasures and its challenges
Make others feel welcome
Share
Feel the Spirit of those who have gone before you
Imagine those who will follow you
Appreciate those who walk with you today
We both reflect, and say Yes
Well done my friends. I have loved sharing this amazing journey with you. Walk into Santiago in joy and enjoy the wonderful city.
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