Door was open, so we came in

Day 23:  Lisbon and Cacilhas, Portugal

At the Sant’anna Azulejo factory
Trying out the yummy Pastel de Belem
Local volunteers biking seniors around the square
The local public health fair
At the square with the Jerónimos Monastery
The sign on the door – that leads to another adventure
Eduardo Henriques proudly shows off his Guiness Record 15 x 6 foot mural of over 67,000 coins
Checking out the cable cars – or local trams
Our original tram never showed up, so we just jumped on an empty tram that happened to be in front of our hotel as we were about to call it and go for drinks .  We ended up riding it for an hour and a half – across the whole city to the end of the line and then jumped back on to return. Just like a Disney ride – that included the local commuters.
We told the driver afterward that he had incredible patience and nerves of steel to deal with very tight corners with cars, buildings and people.

Today was either a day that nothing worked out as planned or it was one of the best days ever – just a matter of perspective. 

We finally (!) got our plan together of what we wanted to see, so we get ready to purchase tickets … and we find out there is a two-day strike for better wages and working conditions, so all those plans won’t be happening.

So we pivot to a new plan. 

We decide to visit the actual tile factory where they have been producing azulejos for almost 300 years, we try out the local custard dessert called pastel de nata and decide we may have to take a class to make them.  While eating our treats, we find out there is the local health fair going on, complete with eye, teeth and hearing exams right in the main square.  We pause … and we also notice what looks to be an enthusiastic evangelical preacher in front of a youth group while on the other end of the square in front of the fountain the local university club (?) dressed in black cloaks is doing what looks like some right of initiation, which everyone else would call hazing.  We also see volunteers biking smiling seniors around the square while there seems to be a kids field day going with activities on the side   Other students are on the main stage performing hip hop moves while the previous group was an elementary school choir. 

We appreciate the daily life of the city that is unfolding right before our eyes.

Next, we decide to take the ferry across the bay for fresh seafood, and find out there is a tour of the last masted navy sailing ship in the harbor.  We ponder the Ship of Theseus  conundrum when we find it has been restored and only 13% is original. As we tour the Naval submarine next door, I find some irony in the rumbuncious child in front of us who is dressed as a little Napoleon, whose armies made the Portuguese royalty literally move their capital and themselves to Brazil in the early 1800’s.

We meander the streets and just when I am done with restaurant row and souvenir shops and ready to head back, Siri decides to go just a bit further which takes us down a different street and a door is open with a sign.  We read, “Guinness Record” and “When the door is open, you can visit”.  

The door is open, so we take it up on its offer.

We enter into a dark hallway and meet Eduardo Henriques –  An older gentleman with a kind smile.   He proudly lets us tour his home of treasures for the next half hour.  We find out he has been making murals of coins for decades and the largest are in the Guinness book of record and we can see why.  Some coins he has collected are just from Portugal, others are from Europe and the world.  All have been made into murals of Portugese ships and sailing themes.  His house is also a museum of naval artifacts of ship horns, bells, portholes and other souvenirs from his life as a merchant marine.  He keeps bringing us down more stairs and turning on lights to more rooms of his treasures.  We are impressed with his enthusiasm and his passion.  We take a few more pictures before we say our goodbyes.  As we walk back out into the sunshine and look at each other knowing that we just had one of those travel adventures that just happen when you go through an open door.

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