The Swamp

Breaux Bridge, Louisiana to Henderson, Louisiana

Today is known as ‘riding the levy,’ which is the 28 foot tall levy that keeps the Atchafalaya national refuge and wetlands from flooding the surrounding areas.  It is part of the Mississippi driver drainage system and until the infamous 1927 flood, the Mississippi used to “meander” on over to this area.  Since then the US Army Corps of Engineers keeps flooding at bay by these levies. 

It is our second full day of riding and we have learned a few things.  First, start early as the heat and humidity only gets worse.  Second, be sure to stop more than halfway, then it feels closer when you have to get going again.  Third, ( learned this today) probably not the best to be drinking beer too early if you still have miles to go. 

We meet up with another tandem couple from Colorado, who have done this several times, and they give us good advice, especially for rule #2.  Based on their advice, we bike all the way to the turn around at Red’s Levy Bar – a one story joint at the end of the road that seems to be the happening place.  Apparently, smoking is still allowed inside public bars – at least in South Louisiana.

Then we make it back to McGee’s swamp tours. We find out it is part of the Boy Scouts Atchafalaya “Swamp Base” each summer.  I’m surprised Josiah’s troop hadn’t heard about it earlier.  I’m sure it would be pretty cool to be camping out with alligators.

As we embarked on our swamp tour we learn there are over 2 million (!) crocodiles in Louisiana and just over 4 million people.  2 people for every crocodile – not to eat of course – they aren’t as aggressive as some may believe since there still seems to be enough good habitat still available.   We are told this fresh water basin is the third largest in the world behind the Amazon and the Congo. 

Our guide is quite the character, calling the alligators by name to get them to come closer.  He regales us with stories of the natural wonders of the swamp and how the resilient Cajuns rebuilt their communities here.

We finally get back on the road and the last part always feels like a slog.  Could be heat, the headwind, the tired legs, or maybe the cold beer on the boat. We will never know.

We finally make it back to base camp and shower. After a quick dinner of appetizers, we get back to have a few Zydeco dance lessons and then get entertained by a local family band that is famous here and also has won a couple Grammys.  It has been quite the treat.

After the first set, and showing of our newest zydeco two step, we call it and head back on the shuttle.  We get to bed by 9:30 – we are tired.

And still ready to do it again tomorrow.

Our welcome to the swamp tours
Our boat in the cypress swamp
On the boat – bringing your (alcoholic) drinks everywhere in public are allowed (and encouraged?) – just in plastic or a can
Our proud Cajun guide
One of the medium size gators welcomes us too
Bikes parked under the draping trees full of Spanish moss
A snowy egret amongst the Cyprus
One of the many houseboats – this one painted from scooby-doo
Who knew it was Boy Scout camp too
Some of the interesting local sculptures – the Pelican is the State symbol and the Tiger is the LSU mascot
Siri and I, with one of the three sisters we met earlier, and our zydeco band leader – one of the famous bands that played for us at the festival
Each night we leave our bikes at the Catholic School ready for the next day of riding

Leave a comment