“We will never fade”

Saturday and Sunday, August 23 & 24, 2025

Pendleton, OR – Pasco, WA – Lewiston, ID

We can tell we have made it to Eastern Washington –  the green forests are replaced by rolling golden wheat fields, the almost 100 degrees outside and the wildfire smoke in the air.  Unfortunately, not the best conditions for a full day of biking, but still good for learning about the area.

On Saturday, we spend most of the day at museums. First is the Tamastlikit cultural institute and hear the Confederated Tribes of the Umatilla Reservation tell their own story of leadership and resilience.  We get to try out traditional games, appreciate the fine beadwork, listen to stories of Coyote, and better understand their declaration as we leave, “We will be: We will never fade.”

Then it is onto the bikes for a short, fun and fast ride downhill into Pendleton to visit their historic downtown.  We take an underground tour to see how taverns, brothels, meat markets and cleaners all inhabited these below ground (and much cooler) spaces for over 70 years.

On Sunday, we make it through all four Snake River dams and then start biking into Lewiston, Idaho.  Due to the smoke and heat, we skip what the locals call “The Spiral” – an almost 2,000 foot climb up the old highway.  Hopefully, we will be back to try it under better conditions.  Later we take a jet boat trip 50 miles down river into Hells Canyon to where the Salmon river meets the Snake.  We do get some relief when we go swimming in the oppressive heat. 

While we were biking, Bob was able to get a personal tour of the Pilot House – thanks to the Captain’s wife, who offered the visit the night before.  Bob enjoyed seeing how much technology is used to maneuver these ships.  No more large steering wheel at the helm, just lots of computer screens.  Bob did make the comment that the captain isn’t actually driving (right then), so he seemed to be ‘just’ the supervisor – just in a different style of office – with a much better view.

Being our first cruise, we are starting to understand the rituals, customs, and especially the employees who make all this happen.  Most of the staff have come from all over the US (their hometown is on their name tags), are on 7-month contracts, and have very few, if any days off.  It seems to be a grueling schedule.  We are also not used to such 24-hour service – not just three very fancy meals a day, but that it continues all day, from early morning coffee to late-night snacks, with activities nearly every hour.  With the biking each morning and often into the afternoon, it makes for very full days.  Kristin, our cruise director (yes, just like the Love Boat) tells us it is like summer camp for seniors – at least very active and mobile seniors on this trip

We have enjoyed the cruise – the views from the boat at all hours have been stunning, we have seen every sunrise and sunset this whole week. We have enjoyed not having to pack each night, just once and you are done.  We have also enjoyed making new friends as we have shared these experiences – either while biking, over a meal, or while on an excursion.   There are the usual frustrations of moving in large groups and the logistical challenges that brings, but that is just part of travelling.

We ask Bob if it has met his expectations and we get a resounding yes.  He has been able to see the river from being ON the river, not just a car.  He also enjoyed going through the eight locks.  We have enjoyed his stories – about visiting his Aunt Catherine near Goldendale and learning about his stern grandfather who owned a farm near Colfax.

On our last night (we can’t believe it has gone by so quick!), we thank the crew who have supported us this whole week. 

Appropriately, our final presentation on the Columbia River is from members of the Nez Perce tribe, people who have lived, hunted and traded in these areas since time immemorial.

The tribal members share their history, dances, stories and humor with us and bid us all safe travels, just as they did when their ancestors met Lewis and Clark on these banks 220 years ago.  They have not faded.

A fitting end to a memorable vacation that included a river journey, biking, spending time together, relaxing, meeting new friends, making new memories, and especially hanging out with Siri’s Dad.

All on the mighty Columbia (and Snake) – Roll On!

Sunrise in Irregon, Oregon (no that is not a misspelling)
Our landing just on the shoreline
The Confederated Tribes of the Umatilla Reservation created this institute to showcase and preserve their history
Intricate beadwork that is handed down through the generations
We Will Be – a great statement of purpose by the tribes as we left their cultural institute
“We will never fade” – declaration by the Umatilla, Walla Walla, and Nez Perce Tribes
One of the underground taverns in Pendleton
A different type of lock system on the Snake river
Sunset as we enter Eastern Washington  – wheat fields and grain silos
Our view from the front deck
Sunset on the Snake river
Our last morning we landed in a campsite – so sorry to disturb you.  I can’t imagine how these tent campers felt to be woken up by a 5-story paddle wheeler and then 150 bikers walking through what they thought was a fairly remote location.
Hanging out with the locals
Fun mosaic bridge welcomes us to  Lewiston, ID
Salmon mosaic
A.cool refreshing dip as we finish our morning ride
Last stop on our trip – Clarkston, WA and Lewiston, ID
In Hell’s Canyon
On the jet boat – with our wind swept hair (OK, that really only applies to Siri)
Nez Perce tribal elder
His great grandfather’s beaded gloves

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