Deep histories

May 28, 2026 Prince Rupert to Smithers, BC

Spirit Bear sculpture in front of Terrace City Hall

Siri tries her hand at kissing the frog prince. To our knowledge, this did not result in any magical transformation.

One of the few non-rainy times in Prince Rupert

The historic North Pacific Cannery museum – one of the last intact examples of what were more than 200 canneries on this coast.

Totem poles at the impressive Museum of Northern British Columbia

Mural: “Our Wealth” created in 2019 for the Lax Kw’alaams Business Development LP, is a rendition of a grease bowl which held the highly prized and heavily traded commodity of Oolichan fish grease. Meant to symbolize ‘our business ventures are based on the premise of collaboration and aim to create positive, healthy partnerships that will grow over time.”

“We are like the salmon and have returned as well,” says one of the Japanese-Canadian former cannery workers talking about how the North Pacific Cannery History museum recently held a welcome back ceremony to the former families and workers who were the backbone of this industry. We were were able to walk through the recently restored housing highlighting the strong community they created even under extremely difficult conditions.

At the Museum of Northern British Columbia, we learn about the deep spiritual and community ties of the potlach where the First Nation’s Chief would distribute gifts to his fellow tribal and clan members. The interpetive sign explains “When the Copper (a symbol of the Chief’s spiritual centre and the House’s wealth) is broken and distributed, it represents not only the giving of many centuries of wealth, but also the confidence of the House that they do not need to rely on the past, but will continue to live and flourish and create and give away new wealth in the future.” We also learn that this deeply spiritual community ceremony was effectively banned in Canada and in the US in the 1880’s until the 1950’s. The reslience of these communities is highlighted in many ways, one of which is how current members are creating their own works of art to share with others.

As we leave Prince Rupert and head out on highway 16 through what is usually amazing snow capped mountains and dramatic vistas, we only see the fog and mist. Tomorrow the sun is supposed to make an appearance. We do see several road signs and billboards with people’s names and photos. It seems to be a memorial – and it is. We find out that this stretch is also known as the “Highway of Tears” due to the high number of missing and murdered indiginous women and girls. We also saw “We are Hope, We are strength” billboards which is a new campaign pivoting from awareness to “creating a moment for pause to remember, honour and to reflect on what we all can do to make this Highway and the communities surrounding it a safer place.”

We also stop in Terrace and conplete a majority of the top 13 things to do – including checking out their robust art scene, murals, and even large steel sculptures placed along trail viewpoints. The basement of their library has been an art gallery since the 1970’s and currently has an exposition highlighting the work from kindergarten to high school students. We enjoy seeing the crocheted moose and a welded book worm of bolts and screws made by the same eighth grade girl.

On our way home from our grizzly adventure we are blessed to have the time to stop and appreciate these smaller communities which seem far away from any “big’ city. They have all found ways to showcase their own personal histories and stories.

Tomorrow we will continue learning from these places and will focus on the natural history like a lookout point (sun willing) and check out the (petrified ?!) Driftwood Canyon National Park.

Here are a few more photos from the last two days.